to the great barrier reef and back, part 05

Here we were on this glorious day, all swimsuits, sunglasses and smiles, heading off to the Airlie Wharf where our Whitsundays voyage had to begin in the early morning hours. I couldn’t be more excited after 42 years of turbulent life slowly building up to this very moment. All the dreaming I had dreamt about the Great Barrier Reef when I was a kid, has finally come to fruition.

A relatively short boat trip between islands, big waves and abundant marine life brought me – the gloomy Geography nerd in uniform from the communist concrete forest – to the most colourful and exotic place in existence. After disembarking from our cosy vessel (which we had chosen on purpose trying to avoid mass fiestas and crowds) we sat foot on the whitest sand possible and laid eyes on the most turquoise waters. Whitehaven beach’s sand is 98.9% pure silica which makes it not only glowingly white but also resistant to high temperatures. No matter how hot a day it is, the sand stays fine, tender and cool.

About three million other tourists had obviously had the same plans for the day so we spent the first 15 minutes trying to navigate among people taking selfies, people taking their clothes off and people queuing up for a BBQ plate (inseparable part of all cruise tours’ programs including ours). It’s a well known fact that the modern human does not like to walk and has a herd mentality so we made about 100 steps north where the whole Whitehaven beach was waiting for us completely glorious and empty.

The previously overcast skies cleared up, the water got even brighter and we had one of the shiniest moments in our lives. Even the black bodysuits with gloves we were wearing to protect ourselves from irukandji jellyfish and other friendly marine fauna couldn’t spoil the magic. Of course we got rid of them the minute we got out of the Lagoon Rock Reef because we are not afraid of the sun and we actually insist on getting it as much as possible. If I was fearless enough I would have added that we don’t use chemical sunscreens too but I am not so I will say nothing.

Then lunch time arrived and we strolled back to the picnic area. Our tour guys (we opted for a small family operated business) served BBQ and fresh salads, warned us not to feed any animals, and we sat nearby to enjoy quality time with food, birds and reptiles. Apparently the Whitehaven’s lizard population is quite well adapted to tourists and allows them enough time to eat before claiming back the tables.

The afternoon plan included a pleasant short sail to Hill Inlet and a bush-walk through the Whitsunday Islands National Park which would have been ten times better if it weren’t for the incessant inadequate jokes of the tour guide. Our daughter – an avid shell collector – was disappointed to learn that it is absolutely forbidden to take anything from the coral-studded shores.

20 minutes hike within thick greenery and we reached the lookouts on the crest of Tongue Bay. From the second I saw this marvel in front of us I knew I will never forget it. A shrine of worship to the infinite talents of our Creator. Each tidal wave in the inlet swirls a new pattern of water and sand, painting yet another stroke on the canvas of this ever-changing masterpiece of nature.

I was about to take my three-thousand and fifth photo of the landscape when Hanko and the kids started urging me to hurry up. Our group had already started descent to the bay so I had little choice but to follow, although my only wish was to stand there and gaze. It is very unfortunate that we couldn’t get a decent family portrait against this gorgeous backdrop – asking strangers to take a photo doesn’t always end up well – but we don’t need it either way. I can close my eyes now and the beauty will be there, forever mine now.